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Adobe Photoshop Tip– Torn Photo a la ‘Amelie’

By: Rick Yaeger

Picture 11 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

The character Nino in Jean Pierre Jeunet’s film Le Fabuleux destin d’Amélie Poulain collects torn and discarded pictures from the photo booths at Paris train stations. He carefully pieces these pictures together in a bizarre "family album." It is this style of fragmented imagery that will be the inspiration for this week’s graphics tip. To get ready, scan in a portrait shot and fire up Photoshop. Here we go, but be warned — this is going to be a long process.

Step 1: Prep the portrait
Picture 0 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

Start with a scanned portrait with the traditional white frame around the outside on one layer. Make sure your scan is an actual floating layer named "Photo" and not a flattened file. If it isn’t, just double click the Background layer in the layers palette and name the layer "Photo" when prompted.

Next we’re going to need a little ripping room. Adjust the Canvas Size (under the Image menu) by adding an inch or so to the width and height. There should now be a half an inch or more of checkered etherial nothingness surrounding your snapshot.

Now we need to give the photo a bit of dimension. Not much. It is, afterall, supposed to be a thin piece of photographic paper. Go to Layer>Layer Style>Bevel and Emboss… and enter these values:

Picture 1 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

We will also need another layer named "Paper" to act the same way as the paper that real photographs are laminated on. Easy enough. Create a new layer under the snapshot, make a selection the exact size and shape of your snapshot by Command-Clicking the Photo layer thumbnail in the Layers palette. Now fill the selection with white in the Paper layer and apply a Drop Shadow layer style with the following values to it:

Picture 2 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

Step 2: Get ready to rip
Create a new Channel and, with the default white foreground color and black background color set, apply Filter>Render>Clouds.

Next comes a rather confusing part. We’re going to try to apply the Crystalize filter (Filter>Pixelate>Crystalize) to the cloud channel but this filter can be a bit of a pain. So rather than give you some values to try that won’t work I’m going to give you a "goal." Try to get a result that has a lot of big chunky crystals like this one.

Picture 3 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

The problem with this filter is that the preview often lies. We’d almost be better off if there was no preview at all, but don’t get me started… lets just get on with the tutorial.

Choose the marquee tool and select an area of the crystal channel that is not too small, is a similar proportion to your snapshot and contains about 5 to 7 crystals or portions of crystals. (See the selection in the image above) Copy it. This is going to be the map by which your snapshot will be ripped.

Hold down the Command key and click the Photo layer’s thumbnail in the Layers pallette. This will make a selection the exact shape of your snapshot. Click the "Save Selection as Channel" button in the Channels palette and then click on your newly created channel.

Picture 4 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

Paste the section of crystals you copied earlier onto this channel. Hit Command-T and stretch that section so that it not only covers but overlaps (see picture above) the silouette of your snapshot and hit Enter. It is now safe to deselect. (Command-D)

Picture 5 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie


We’re still not ready to rip yet. We need to distress this map a bit. Apply the Ripple filter (Filter>Distort>Ripple…) with a setting of Medium ripples at 100%. This channel is now ready to rip the photographic layer of our snapshot. Name it "Photo Rip".

Now we need another channel to rip the paper upon which the photograph would be laminated. I’m sure you’ve noticed that when you rip a piece of paper that it rips in irregular lines. But it also exposes the inner edges is such a way that, on edges that were once together, one side will show the paper’s "inner pulp" while the other side overlaps it – this is what we will attempt to simulate.

Duplicate your rippled rip channel. Apply the Maximum filter (Filter>Other>Maximum) to it at a value of 2 pixels. Great! Now name this channel "Paper Rip". The Maximum filter expands areas with lighter pixels and allows them to encroach on the areas held by darker pixels. Next, apply the Wave filter (Filters>Distort>Wave…) at the following settings: (like the Crystalize Filter, the preview on the Wave filter lies — don’t trust it. All we want is for the Paper Rip channel to be slightly warped by the Wave filter)

Picture 9 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

Step 3: Enough preparation! Let’s rip!!!
I remember when I used my gym membership that time that the trainers talked about "getting ripped" and that it required a certain amount of repetition. That is true in this case also, but I hope I have more success training you than that guy had training me. With your Magic Wand tool selected and set to a Tolerance of 10 Anti-Aliased, Contiguous pixels, repeat the following process until you have created ripped pieces for each of the shapes in your rip channels:

    The Process

  1. Duplicate the Photo layer.
  2. Duplicate the Paper layer.
  3. Link the new duplicates.
  4. Hide the originals. (click the "eye" in the Layers palette next to each layer)
  5. Move the duped Paper layer directly underneath the duped Photo layer.
  6. Go to the Photo Rip channel.
  7. Click in one of the rip shapes with the Magic Wand tool.
    Picture 8 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

  8. Go to the duped Photo layer
  9. Under the Layer menu select Add Layer Mask>Reveal Selection
  10. Go to the Paper Rip channel.
  11. Click in the coresponding rip shape to the one you selected in the Photo Rip layer with the Magic Wand tool.
  12. Go to the duped Paper layer
  13. Under the Layer menu select Add Layer Mask>Reveal Selection
  14. With the Layer Mask of the Paper layer still selected, apply the Torn Edges filter (Filters>Sketch>Torn Edges…) with a setting of 25, 11 and 17.
  15. If you have no more rip shapes to make, continue on with Step 4 of the tutorial, otherwise repeat The Process.


Picture 10 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

Step 4: Finessing
Now your ripped snapshot should look quite convincing. The only thing left is to rotate and move each piece slightly and give the whole image a background to lay on.

With the Move tool selected (hit the V key on the keyboard), Command click any piece in the window. Go to Edit>Free Transform (or just hit Command-T) to summon the transformation bounding box around that piece. Now move you cursor near the corner of the bounding box until the cursor changes into a curved arrow. Click the mouse button and hold as you move the mouse slightly, thus rotating the individule piece slightly. You may also want to use the keyboards arrow keys to move the piece a bit on the canvas. Hit the Enter key when you are satisfied with this piece’s placement and orientation. Go ahead and rotate and/or move a few more pieces until the overall image has a more random look.

Add a new layer and drag it to the bottom of the Layers palette below all the other layers. Fill this layer with whatever background color you choose. I selected a nice red:

Picture 11 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

Read other Graphics Tips of the Week

Adobe Photoshop Tip– Simple Matrix Code

Also check out the sequel to this tutorial: The Matrix Code Retooled. It’s a much improved version of the Matrix raining code effect using actual type just like in the films.

bookend1 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Simple Matrix Code

I know why you’re here. I know what you’ve been doing… why you hardly sleep, why you live alone, and why night after night, you sit by your computer. You’re looking for this. I know because I was once looking for the same thing. And when it found me, I realized I wasn’t really looking for it. I was looking for an answer. It’s the question. It’s the question that drives us. It’s the question that brought you here. You know the question, just as I did.

“How do I make that funky green raining code that you see in the Matrix, the Matrix Reloaded and the Matrix Revolutions?”

The answer is right there, and it’s looking for you, and it will find you if you want it to…okay, it won’t really…never mind…here’s the tutorial:

I’m starting with a 5″ square canvas at 300ppi filled with black in RGB mode. We’re going to have at least 4 layers of code that will give our image depth. The first layer (the layer furthest back) will consist of steps that will be used throughout this tutorial. We shall call these steps “the Recipe” Here we go:

Background Layer: Green Rain – Downpour

Using the Background layer, follow the steps of the recipe as described here:

The Recipe
  1. Go Filter > Texture > Grain*. Use a setting of 100 Intensity, 100 Contrast on a Vertical Grain Type and click OK.
    Picture 1 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Simple Matrix Code

    * the Grain Filter is one of those Photoshop filters that produces new and different patterns and distributions of its effect each time you use it. So don’t try to be clever and skip steps by duplicating previously rendered layers. There is a difference between knowing the path and walking the path.
  2. Now go Filter > Other > Maximum. Use a setting of 1 Pixel and click OK.
    Picture 2 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Simple Matrix Code
  3. Next go Filter > Stylize > Glowing Edges adjust the setting to be an Edge Width of 1, Edge Brightness of 5 and a Smoothness setting of 1. Click OK.
    Picture 3 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Simple Matrix Code

Then bring up the Levels Adjustment window (Command-L) and set the Output Levels (the two fields below the histogram) to 0 and 80 and click OK.

Layer 1: Green Rain – Intermittent showers

Picture 4 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Simple Matrix Code

Make a new layer filled with black on top of the first. Apply the Grain effect from step 1 of the Recipe. Now scale this new layer by hitting Command-T and entering a value of 200% in the width and height fields before applying the scale.

Go ahead and complete steps 2 and 3 of the Recipe on this layer.

Add a layer mask to this layer (Layer > Add Layer Mask > Reveal All) and click on the Quick Mask Mode button in the Tools palette.

Choose Filter > Render > Clouds.

Now go Image > Adjustments > Threshold. Set the threshold to 140 and click OK.

Go Filter > Stylize > Wind. Set the Wind filter to “Wind” and “From the Right” and click OK. Hit Command-F 3 times to apply this Wind effect several more times.

Apply a Motion Blur of 10 pixels at 90? (Filter > Blur > Motion Blur) to smudge the wind lines a little.

Go Edit > Transform > Rotate 90? CCW.

Exit Quick Mask Mode by clicking the Standard Mode button in the Tools palette.

Click on the thumbnail on your layer’s mask in the Layers palette and then hit delete to mask out the “Cloudy-Windy texture” you’ve created.

Deselect All (Command-D)

With the mask thumbnail still selected bring up the Levels Adjustment window (Command-L) and set the three fields above the histogram to 0, 0.10, and 255 and click OK.

Set the Blending Mode of this layer to Screen.

Layer 2: Green Rain – Raining Cats and Dogs

Picture 5 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Simple Matrix Code

Make another new layer filled with black on top of the other two. Apply the Grain effect from step 1 of the Recipe. Scale this layer as you did with Layer 1, only this time crank it up to 500%.

Because of all the scaling we’ve done, there is a lot of image data that resides beyond the confines of the Canvas and any filters we apply will have to render across this unseen image area. So to save time in applying filters, we’re going to crop off this extra image data. Select All (Command-A) and go Image > Crop the hit Command-D to deselect again.

Apply a Threshold (you remember Threshold from Layer 1) of 128 to this layer

Apply steps 2 and 3 from the the Recipe, but when you get to step 3, use an Edge Width of 2 on the Glowing Edges filter.

Add a Layer Mask to this layer also and, with the layer’s mask thumbnail selected, apply the Clouds filter and then adjust the Levels to 70, 1.00, 190 for the Input Levels and set the Output fields to 0 & 150.

Set the Blending Mode of this layer to Screen.

Layer 3+: Green Rain – Enter the Code

Picture 6 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Simple Matrix Code

The previous layers have all been less detailed background representations of the text based code that runs through the Matrix. In this section we will be adding text layers to more accurately represent the code.

Select the Vertical Type Tool (in the Tools palette, click and hold on the Type Tool to reveal the Vertical Type Tool). Set the font to Courier (or a mono spaced font of your choosing), set the type size to 9pt, the alignment to “Top Align Text”, and the color to white. Hit the Caps Lock key on your keyboard and type something…anything…be it nonsense or subliminal messages.

Once you’ve typed a few characters, highlight them all, open the Character palette and set the tracking to -150.

Once you have a single vertical line of text (it doesn’t have to stretch from the top to the bottom ó it’s actually better if it floats in the middle a bit). When you’re done typing, click the Gradient Tool and then add a layer mask (Reveal All again). With the Gradient options set to the standard “White to Black”, Normal mode, 100% Opacity settings, click the mouse down on the baseline of the letter second from the bottom of you line of “code” and drag it straight up, releasing your mouse button somewhere slightly beyond the height of the topmost letter.

Repeat this process by creating a few more Vertical Text strings…not too many…just more. You can even Option-Drag your completed code strings to replicate them in various parts of your image.

Final Layer: Adjusting to the Green

Picture 7 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Simple Matrix Code

Create a Hue/Saturation Adjustment Layer (Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Hue/Saturation) above all your other layers. Set the Hue/Saturation Adjustment Layer to Colorize with settings of 146 Hue, 55 Saturation and -37 Lightness.

Well, there you go that’s it for another Graphics Tip. Stay tuned to MacMerc.com… you never know when we’re gonna bring you another one.

bookend2 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Simple Matrix Code

Also check out the sequel to this tutorial: The Matrix Code Retooled. It’s a much improved version of the Matrix raining code effect using actual type just like in the films.

Photoshop Not-so-Quick Tip 9– Photoshop’s Extract filter

The following material has been gleaned from our own tutorial, Adobe Photoshop Tip: Attack of the iPod People, but is presented here so that others might benefit from the technique without having to sort through the tutorial in which it was used.

Photoshop’s Extract filter is what is called a “destructive” filter in that it makes nearly irreversible changes to an image …unless you take precautions. As I recommend with all destructive filters, use the Extract filter on a duplicate of the layer you wish to affect. In fact, we’re going to duplicate the subject layer twice in this demonstration. This is because we will eventually use the results of the Extract filter to create a layer mask and, presuming your subject layer is the “Background” layer and also assuming that you’d like to leave it that way, there is no way to add a layer mask to a “Background” layer…they just work differently than regular layers…they represent a flattened image.

Okay, so, duplicate the layer your subject is on (most likely the “Background”
layer) and name
this new layer “Close crop”. Duplicate the Close Crop layer and
arrange its clone above it in the Layers palette (it’s probably already there).
Name this layer “Sacrificial Layer”. Click the “eye” next to the original or Background layer in the layers palette so only the “Close Crop” and “Sacrificial Layer” are visible (it will likely be hard to tell what is visible since all three layers are identical)

Now, make sure the “Sacrificial
Layer” is selected in the Layers palette. Here comes the tricky part:

Disclaimer:

Adobe Photoshop’s Extract filter, like other filters that purport to
isolate objects from backgrounds in photos, is very complicated. Many
image specific problems may arise and some images simply will not work.
For this reason I will not be able to offer any help to people who attempt
this tutorial and encounter difficulty. The methods used here work on
the image I am using and many others I have tried, but your mileage may
vary.

This tutorial is intended for advanced audiences. Some steps may be objectionable
to some users. Discretion is advised.

Go Filter>Extract…

Now you will be faced with the Extract filter interface. The Extract filter
is a “destructive” filter that, with your help, will extract (thus
the name) your subject from its background. What I mean by “destructive”
is that once you have gone through the trouble of getting this filter to do
all it can to isolate your subject and have clicked “Ok”, the
effect it has on the layer is no longer editable. It does not create a layer
mask or clipping path–it deletes pixels. This is why I had you create the “Sacrificial
Layer” and why we are applying the Extract filter to that layer and not
the “Close Crop” or any other layer.

The other scary thing about the Extract filter is that it is darned near impossible
to teach in a text based tutorial like this. So the best
I can do for the time being is to give you the steps involved and the purposes
of those steps:

  1. highlight 20071015 210021 Photoshop Not so Quick Tip 9   Photoshops Extract filterHighlighting:
    The Edge Highlighter tool (looks like a fat felt tip marker) shows Photoshop
    the “border zone.” You’ll draw along the edge of your subject–like
    an outline. But, unlike an outline you need to draw about equally inside the
    edge and outside. The mark you make with this tool tells Photoshop, “Somewhere
    in the stroke of this line is where the edge is.” So if your subject
    has a hazy edge, you’re going to want to use a bigger brush size. But keep
    in mind: the finer the outline the better.
    Make sure your finished outline is a closed shape or that it starts and ends
    at the image’s edge. Also be sure to outline anywhere the background shows
    through within the outer border–such as if your subject has his hands on
    his hips looking heroic, he’ll have background showing through under his arms
    (unless he’s wearing a cape). I have a few areas like this on top of the dancer’s leg where the chains have lifted into the air a bit.
    You can use the Eraser tool (looks like an eraser …duh) to rub out any mistake
    you might make in highlighting. Holding down the Option key while using the
    Edge Highlighter tool also serves as an eraser.
    If you’re feeling really keen, you can try out “Smart Highlighting”
    which promises to follow the edge as you draw and even choose an appropriate
    brush width. It actually does a pretty good job and I highly recommend giving
    it a test drive. Smart Highlighting can be accessed by clicking the checkbox
    on the right side of the Extract filter interface or by holding down the Command
    key while using the Edge Highlighter tool. It can be a great time saver but
    can’t handle fine detail or low contrast edges very well.
  2. Filling: Once you’ve highlighted the border zone,
    you’re going to have to tell Photoshop which side of the border you want to
    keep. Click the Fill tool (looks like a paint bucket) inside the border where
    you want Photoshop to save your subject from its background.
    If the Fill tool spilled paint where you didn’t want it to, just click again
    in the same spot and it will remove the fill. Then you can grab the Highlight
    tool again and draw in the open spot where the paint flowed out and try again.
  3. preview 20071015 210232 Photoshop Not so Quick Tip 9   Photoshops Extract filter
    Previewing:
    Once you feel you have mastered Highlighting and Filling, look down at the
    bottom of the setting on the right hand side of the window and set the Display
    setting to “Other…” A color picker will pop up. Go ahead and pick a nice bright color. Click the “Preview”
    button in the top right corner of the Extract filter window and let Photoshop
    have a crack at extracting based on your instructions.
    Once Photoshop is done attempting to extract your subject form its background,
    you may be completely disappointed with this filter. Is the subject in your
    original photo on a background that is very busy or similar in color to the
    subject? That will make it tough. If so, go to the Preview settings and set
    Show to “Original” and check both the “Show Highlight”
    and “Show Fill” boxes and you’ll be back to before the preview.
    Now check the “Textured Image” box in the Extraction settings above
    the Preview settings you just adjusted. Try clicking the Preview button again
    and see if the results are any better. If not, we’ll just have to make do
    somehow. There is more tweaking ahead still.
  4. Cleanup and Edge Touchup: The Cleanup tool (looks
    like a paint brush on a square with circle inside it) will allow you to softly
    erase parts of the extracted image or, by holding down the Option key, paint
    them back in. You should go around the perimeter of your subject and make
    sure all his or her bits are still intact.
    If the problems lie more with the smoothness of the edges than the accuracy,
    use the Edge Touchup tool (looks like a fat felt tip marker on a square with
    circle inside it) to smooth out the roughness. You can even hold down the
    Command key while using it to smudge the edge to your liking.
    You are free at this stage to jump between the Cleanup and Edge Touchup tools,
    but any tweaking using the Highlighter tool or Fill tool will nullify anything
    you have worked for since clicking Preview. So, work at refining that edge,
    because once you’re done this, click “OK” and apply your extraction.

Man, that was like pulling teeth!

Once your Extraction has applied, Command-Click the Sacrificial Layer and select
the Close Crop layer in the Layers palette. Go Layer>Add Layer Mask>Reveal
Selection. You may now delete the Sacrificial Layer.

Channels 20071015 210447 Photoshop Not so Quick Tip 9   Photoshops Extract filterNow,
with the layer mask of the Close Crop layer selected in the Layers palette,
edit the mask to further refine the extraction. I like using the Smudge tool
to smoosh the edge of the extraction a tiny bit so that they don’t look pixelated.
This process will allow you to edit out any rough spots or refine any details
that you missed or couldn’t get right in the Extract filter window.

You might even want to open the Channels palette, click the eye next to the Close Crop Mask to the “on” position and turn off the eye next to RGB
(or CMYK). This will allow you to look at just the mask and make sure it doesn’t
have any black or white greeblies in places where they don’t belong. The Extract
filter often leaves these things strewn about the highlight area and, though
they may be difficult to see now, they may come back to haunt you later. Once
you’re done, click the image thumbnail of the Close Crop layer.

That’s about it for the Extact Filter. I hope I’ve cleared up a bit of its mystery.