palette

Prepress Checklist

By: Rick Yaeger

In my experiences working in advertising agencies, design firms and production houses, I have found that taking the time to double check jobs against a list of standards quite valuable in preventing costly reprints.

This is by no means an exhaustive list, although to those who do not employ such a system, it might seem so…

Accuracy

  • check spelling: Most, if not all, page layout programs have spell checking abilities. Make sure you use them to check your jobs. It’s also a good idea to keep your programs dictionary current by “teaching” it to recognize words unique to the jobs you work on.
  • check revisions: The whole point of the client checking proofs is to catch and correct errors before film is run. Make sure you carefully go over these proofs and have another person double check to be sure of accuracy. It’s a great idea to use a highlighter to… well… highlight where proofs have been marked up with corrections. Any steps that can be taken to make things more clear are always beneficial.
  • proof read: The client is supposed to read and proof everything but still spelling mistakes and errors squeak through. Don’t be so focused on the client’s corrections that you miss other errors that they might have missed.
  • check size/proportion against docket and job request form: There are few things worse or more embarrassing than bringing a job to completion only to find that it is an inch wider than intended. Check the specifications, assume nothing.
  • update document tags: Many production houses and film shops have adopted a system of tagging jobs with information that is updated throughout the jobs life until completion. If you are working in such a shop be sure to pay careful attention to updating this information. Some of the information that may appear in such a tag might include:
    • docket number and version number
    • current date
    • proofed by…
    • color bars
    • line screen
    • font list
    • indication of the use of FPO images
  • trapping: This is an art unto itself. Many production houses leave this worry to the film shop to deal with. Trapping is the precaution taken to insure that minor misregistrations of color on the press do not entirely compromise the quality of the printed piece. If you happen to work at a shop where you are expected to check the trapping, I suggest you take every necessary step to be sure that there are no trapping issues with your job. Printing laser separations before sending a job out to the film shop is often a good method of checking for trapping errors.
  • bleed: If your current production project prints right to the edge of the page, make sure that there is a suitable amount of image overlapping the edge of the page. Check with the printer of the job to determine the correct bleed width (usually 1/8").
  • spot colors represented in color bars: This is simple common sense. If you are printing a two color job, make sure you include a color tag representing each color outside the jobs bleed area.
  • custom colors in process jobs set to process separation: Often when a color is chosen in Quark XPress it comes out of the PANTONE color matching system and is then added to XPress’s colors palette and forgotten. Most likely XPress sees this color as a spot color. This is fine if the job you are working on is using spot colors, but if it is separating into cyan, magenta, yellow and black inks, then your new spot color has made your four color job into a five color job. Make sure you specify Process Separation for custom colors in CMYK jobs.
  • custom colors in process jobs with inconsistent CMYK break downs: Occasionally, different programs have slightly different ideas of the CMYK equivalents for certain PANTONE colors. This is something you should confirm and rectify if you are bringing art from Illustrator, Freehand or Photoshop into a page layout program like Quark XPress. It is almost always easier to allow the imported graphics to introduce the new colors to XPress’ color palette … even then, you should make sure that all the different files you are importing see the colors the same way or they will not look the same on the press!
  • flag FPO images, odd scaling, art director’s poetic license or any items that should be dealt with before the job is output: Here’s a great idea for large production houses that takes advantage of Quark XPress’s library feature. Make a library of warning symbols (select supress printout on them before adding them to the library). These tags would warn anyone opening the job that:
    • a certain photo has be scanned for position only (FPO!)
    • a corporate logo has been scaled at a different percentage in the X coordinate than in the Y.
    • an art director has gone against the client’s wishes and altered the file
    • a low resolution image has been placed to speed printing but the high resolution version should be replaced before sending the job out.

    These kind of notes can protect you from finger pointing and ax wielding when jobs go sideways and are utilized by some of the bigger production facilities in Vancouver (most notably Artefact and Detroit).

  • investigate job flags: Okay, once you’ve made the wise decision of tagging anomalous items in your documents, you must follow through by investigating them when they are found. If you are asked to collect a job for output and then discover that it is riddled with FPO! flags, it’s time to talk to your production manager and formulate a strategy.
  • use the right tool for the right job: In the last few years, the lines that defined what made a layout application, a vector illustration application and an image editor have been smudged. You can now apply Adobe Photoshop plug-ins to images placed in Adobe Illustrator, you can create clipping paths in Quark XPress and you can manipulate vector images in Adobe InDesign. Heck, if you want to, you can drill a hole in the wall with a ball-point pen! Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should. Use layout programs for layout and leave image editing to image editing applications. Quark XPress just isn’t as good at clipping paths as Adobe Photoshop … nor should it be expected to be!

Typography

  • quotes (“ ”), apostrophes (‘ ’), inch marks (") and foot marks (‘): Each of these marks of punctuation has a specific use. Be sure to go over your work with a fine toothed comb to make sure that you aren’t inching quotes or quoting inches. (Please note that the internet is somewhat vague on the difference between these marks due to issues of compatibility between systems).
  • widows, orphans and hyphenation: Never leave a man behind! The definitions of terms “widow” and “orphan” have been debated over and over again but the concern remains the same regardless of nomenclature. Avoid the following:
    • leaving too few lines of the beginning of a paragraph at the end of a column
    • leaving too few lines at the end of a paragraph at the top of a column
    • leaving too few lines of the beginning of a paragraph at the end of a page
    • leaving too few lines at the end of a paragraph at the beginning of a page
    • leaving too few words at the end of a paragraph
    • hyphenating a word staring at the end of one column or page and ending at the top of another column or page
    • hyphenating too many words in a row down the edge of a column of text
  • superfluous spaces: In the age of typewriters and other monospace devices, a period was not enough to clearly end a thought in type on a printed page. Every typing student was taught that a period must always be followed by two spaces (a semicolon was treated similarly). Though this is no longer a concern with Postscript fonts and computer typesetting, the tradition has snuck its way into misuse in the print production industry. Do a “Find and Replace” for all double hits of the space bar and replace them with on single solitary space. Tell the client that the space you saved enabled you to enlarge his logo!
  • kerning: Another art within an art. Most page layout programs enable you to finesse the tracking and kerning of your type so that the spacing may look consistent and pleasant. Take a typography course, it will open your eyes.

Image Usage

  • white backgrounds on images: If aren’t careful, Photoshop images in your Quark XPress jobs might get printed with unsightly jagged edges. This is often caused by placing a grayscale or color TIFF into an image box with no background. (If you have never witnessed this, you need only comb through the back of any MacWorld magazine where they present the greatest number of low-budget ads … or just a look at the image below!) Though you may want the background to show through, this is not the way to go about it. Only bitmapped TIFF’s and EPS’s (preferably EPS’s with clipping paths) can get away with having their backgrounds set to "None."

bgofnone Prepress Checklist

  • artwork resolution, rotation and scaling: Though image setter rips are getting so sophisticated now that it hardly matters anymore, for the sake of file size, beware of images scaled too much or rotated in page layout program. It is best to take the scaling and rotating information from Quark XPress and apply that to the actual Photoshop image. Images scaled down more than 60% are simply occupying too much hard drive space. Also be sure that you haven’t scaled any images up so much that their effective resolutions are below twice the printing resolution.

File Management

  • image naming convention: Always conform to the agreed naming conventions when saving files. This will aid in identifying the correct files when collecting for output or retrieving from archive.
  • elements in their assigned folders: As with naming conventions, adhere to any procedures for keeping all images, fonts, logos, graphics, etc. in organized folders.
  • copy jobs back to the server: If you happen to be working on a system with a central file server, make sure that you copy your files back to the server before moving on. This will make them available to the file backup system and ensure that you work is not lost in the event of crash or corruption.
  • trash jobs off your hard drive: Once again, for those using a central file server, make sure that once you have copied your files to the server that you remove them from your drive. This will prevent any kind of confusion caused by having multiple copies of the same job. Keep the most current version on the server and dispose of all copies. Possible exceptions include:

    • situations where the stability of the file server is in question. In this case, keep a separate folder on you drive to hold your work as a personal backup.
    • situations where the stability of the art director or designer is in question. It is best in this case to employ a naming convention that uses version numbers to preserve a project in its various incarnations just in case the designer’s mind changes.

Removable Media Usage

  • remember to sign out the disks you use: Many studios require that any jobs going out on company owned removable media must be signed out. If this is the case in your working environment, remember to comply.

Adobe Photoshop Tip– Torn Photo a la ‘Amelie’

By: Rick Yaeger

Picture 11 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

The character Nino in Jean Pierre Jeunet’s film Le Fabuleux destin d’Amélie Poulain collects torn and discarded pictures from the photo booths at Paris train stations. He carefully pieces these pictures together in a bizarre "family album." It is this style of fragmented imagery that will be the inspiration for this week’s graphics tip. To get ready, scan in a portrait shot and fire up Photoshop. Here we go, but be warned — this is going to be a long process.

Step 1: Prep the portrait
Picture 0 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

Start with a scanned portrait with the traditional white frame around the outside on one layer. Make sure your scan is an actual floating layer named "Photo" and not a flattened file. If it isn’t, just double click the Background layer in the layers palette and name the layer "Photo" when prompted.

Next we’re going to need a little ripping room. Adjust the Canvas Size (under the Image menu) by adding an inch or so to the width and height. There should now be a half an inch or more of checkered etherial nothingness surrounding your snapshot.

Now we need to give the photo a bit of dimension. Not much. It is, afterall, supposed to be a thin piece of photographic paper. Go to Layer>Layer Style>Bevel and Emboss… and enter these values:

Picture 1 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

We will also need another layer named "Paper" to act the same way as the paper that real photographs are laminated on. Easy enough. Create a new layer under the snapshot, make a selection the exact size and shape of your snapshot by Command-Clicking the Photo layer thumbnail in the Layers palette. Now fill the selection with white in the Paper layer and apply a Drop Shadow layer style with the following values to it:

Picture 2 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

Step 2: Get ready to rip
Create a new Channel and, with the default white foreground color and black background color set, apply Filter>Render>Clouds.

Next comes a rather confusing part. We’re going to try to apply the Crystalize filter (Filter>Pixelate>Crystalize) to the cloud channel but this filter can be a bit of a pain. So rather than give you some values to try that won’t work I’m going to give you a "goal." Try to get a result that has a lot of big chunky crystals like this one.

Picture 3 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

The problem with this filter is that the preview often lies. We’d almost be better off if there was no preview at all, but don’t get me started… lets just get on with the tutorial.

Choose the marquee tool and select an area of the crystal channel that is not too small, is a similar proportion to your snapshot and contains about 5 to 7 crystals or portions of crystals. (See the selection in the image above) Copy it. This is going to be the map by which your snapshot will be ripped.

Hold down the Command key and click the Photo layer’s thumbnail in the Layers pallette. This will make a selection the exact shape of your snapshot. Click the "Save Selection as Channel" button in the Channels palette and then click on your newly created channel.

Picture 4 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

Paste the section of crystals you copied earlier onto this channel. Hit Command-T and stretch that section so that it not only covers but overlaps (see picture above) the silouette of your snapshot and hit Enter. It is now safe to deselect. (Command-D)

Picture 5 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie


We’re still not ready to rip yet. We need to distress this map a bit. Apply the Ripple filter (Filter>Distort>Ripple…) with a setting of Medium ripples at 100%. This channel is now ready to rip the photographic layer of our snapshot. Name it "Photo Rip".

Now we need another channel to rip the paper upon which the photograph would be laminated. I’m sure you’ve noticed that when you rip a piece of paper that it rips in irregular lines. But it also exposes the inner edges is such a way that, on edges that were once together, one side will show the paper’s "inner pulp" while the other side overlaps it – this is what we will attempt to simulate.

Duplicate your rippled rip channel. Apply the Maximum filter (Filter>Other>Maximum) to it at a value of 2 pixels. Great! Now name this channel "Paper Rip". The Maximum filter expands areas with lighter pixels and allows them to encroach on the areas held by darker pixels. Next, apply the Wave filter (Filters>Distort>Wave…) at the following settings: (like the Crystalize Filter, the preview on the Wave filter lies — don’t trust it. All we want is for the Paper Rip channel to be slightly warped by the Wave filter)

Picture 9 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

Step 3: Enough preparation! Let’s rip!!!
I remember when I used my gym membership that time that the trainers talked about "getting ripped" and that it required a certain amount of repetition. That is true in this case also, but I hope I have more success training you than that guy had training me. With your Magic Wand tool selected and set to a Tolerance of 10 Anti-Aliased, Contiguous pixels, repeat the following process until you have created ripped pieces for each of the shapes in your rip channels:

    The Process

  1. Duplicate the Photo layer.
  2. Duplicate the Paper layer.
  3. Link the new duplicates.
  4. Hide the originals. (click the "eye" in the Layers palette next to each layer)
  5. Move the duped Paper layer directly underneath the duped Photo layer.
  6. Go to the Photo Rip channel.
  7. Click in one of the rip shapes with the Magic Wand tool.
    Picture 8 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

  8. Go to the duped Photo layer
  9. Under the Layer menu select Add Layer Mask>Reveal Selection
  10. Go to the Paper Rip channel.
  11. Click in the coresponding rip shape to the one you selected in the Photo Rip layer with the Magic Wand tool.
  12. Go to the duped Paper layer
  13. Under the Layer menu select Add Layer Mask>Reveal Selection
  14. With the Layer Mask of the Paper layer still selected, apply the Torn Edges filter (Filters>Sketch>Torn Edges…) with a setting of 25, 11 and 17.
  15. If you have no more rip shapes to make, continue on with Step 4 of the tutorial, otherwise repeat The Process.


Picture 10 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

Step 4: Finessing
Now your ripped snapshot should look quite convincing. The only thing left is to rotate and move each piece slightly and give the whole image a background to lay on.

With the Move tool selected (hit the V key on the keyboard), Command click any piece in the window. Go to Edit>Free Transform (or just hit Command-T) to summon the transformation bounding box around that piece. Now move you cursor near the corner of the bounding box until the cursor changes into a curved arrow. Click the mouse button and hold as you move the mouse slightly, thus rotating the individule piece slightly. You may also want to use the keyboards arrow keys to move the piece a bit on the canvas. Hit the Enter key when you are satisfied with this piece’s placement and orientation. Go ahead and rotate and/or move a few more pieces until the overall image has a more random look.

Add a new layer and drag it to the bottom of the Layers palette below all the other layers. Fill this layer with whatever background color you choose. I selected a nice red:

Picture 11 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Torn Photo a la Amelie

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Adobe Photoshop Tip– The Ubiquitous Aqua Text Tutorial

aquafinal Adobe Photoshop Tip   The Ubiquitous Aqua Text Tutorial

By: Rick Yaeger

We here at MacMerc have taken a lot of flack for certain articles that contain detailed explainations of activities we do not condone. The graphics tip before you may very well be added to their number. What I am about to explain, in great detail, is exactly how you can produce text similar to the large X on the box MacOS X comes in. I’m going to explain it, I’m even going to offer you the Photoshop Layer Style used to achieve it, but make no mistake, I do not condone the use of this tutorial. Aqua is everywhere and it’s being mimicked with varying degrees of success using third-party plug-ins and countless Layer Style Settings. It’s wrong and it has to stop.

aquastyles Adobe Photoshop Tip   The Ubiquitous Aqua Text TutorialSo why detail a graphic technique I don’t condone? For a few simple reasons:

  1. I intend to dispel the myth that a single Layer Style can produce this effect properly.
  2. As long as everyone is going to be using aqua type effects, they might as well do them well. And…
  3. I’ve been negligent in writing my graphics tips of late and this seemed like an easy way to get one in. I admit it, I’ve been bad.

One more warning before I continue, this tutorial is for Aqua type not Aqua buttons. If you want to make your own Aqua buttons there are plenty of great tutorials out there, but this is not one of them.

This tutorial is quite adaptable and might even produce fairly acceptable Aquafied logo effects. But, as you will see, the secret of the Aqua effect is in the highlighting and the highlighting used on Aqua type will not work as well for buttons as other techniques.

Anyway, enough warnings ó here we go.

Step 1: Type your type

aquajusttext Adobe Photoshop Tip   The Ubiquitous Aqua Text Tutorial

I don’t think there is a Mac forum in existence that has not had this question posed: “What font does Apple use?” The answer is Apple Garamond, it is evidently a font that Apple wants to keep to itself but if you know where to look, it’s not that hard to find. If using the authentic Apple font violates conditions of your parole, almost any flavor of Garamond Light Condensed will do. Load the font and launch Photoshop 7.

Start a new Photoshop document. I’m using a 7″ by 2″ 300ppi RGB file and all my instructions from here on out will assume you are working on a similar format.

I’ve typed “MacMerc.com” at 93pt in ITC Garamond Light Condensed. The color of the text doesn’t matter ó the Layer Style is going to override it anyway.

Step 2: Download and Apply the MacMerc Style

You are going to need to download and decompress this Layer Style to continue. Once you have it, open Photoshop’s Style palette and, using the menu in its top right hand corner, select “Load Styles…” and direct Photoshop to the style we’ve given you. It should now be added to you Style palette. With you text layer selected apply the “MacMerc Aqua!” style. If you think it looks pretty unimpressive so far, I agree.

UPDATE: If you are not using Adobe Photoshop 7, you will not be able to use the provided Layer Style. For users of older Photoshop versions, I have created this Photoshop file. All you need to do is download the file, open it in Photoshop, open your Styles palette and choose “Create New Style” by clicking on the middle icon at the bottom of the palette or by clicking in an empty area of the palette when the cursor turns into a paint bucket.

Photoshop 5.5 users can also use this file by opening it and chosing Effects>Copy Effects from under the Layer menu and choosing Effect>Paste Effects from the same menu to apply the effect to the desired layer.

Thanks to Iain Farrell for his help in making this tutorial more accessible.

Step 3: The Highlight of the effect

Create a new layer above the text layer and name it “Highlight”. Open the Layers palette if it isn’t already and confirm that the Highlight layer is selected while you Command-click the text layer. This makes a selection on the Highlight layer the exact shape and possition of the text on the layer below it. In the menu bar, go Select>Modify>Contract… and enter a value of 3. Fill this selection with white.

Next, with your selection still active and the Selection tool active (any one, the rectange, the circle ó it doesn’t matter), view your document at 100% and press the Down Arrow key on your keyboard 20 times. Go back to the menu bar and choose Select>Modify>Expand… and enter 10. Now go Select>Feather… and enter a value of 5 and then delete the contents of this selection on the Highlight layer.

You should now have a pretty passable Aqua text effect, but still not an impressive one. Please continue.

aquaunimpressive Adobe Photoshop Tip   The Ubiquitous Aqua Text Tutorial

Step 4: It’s all in the details

Creat a new layer between the text layer and the Highlight layer. Name it “Edge Glow – Bottom”. With this new layer selected, Command-click the type layer again and contract the selection by 3 pixles and fill it with white as you did to the Hightlight layer in Step 3.

Again, as in Step 3, we are going to nudge the selection. But this time we are going to nudge it up and we will only be going up 1 pixel (view your document at 100% and hit the Up arrow once with a Selection tool active). Now delete the contents of the selection.

Set the Blending Mode for Edge Glow – Bottom to “Overlay,” deselect and go Filter>Blur>Blur (I know, Gaussian Blur is the professionals “Blur of Choice” but plain old blur works just fine here).

Your Aqua type should be looking pretty sexy now, but we’re not down yet. We’re going to go that extra pixel to do this type up right.

aquadetails Adobe Photoshop Tip   The Ubiquitous Aqua Text TutorialStep 5: Details upon details

Creat one final layer above Edge Glow – Bottom and name it “Edge Glow – Top”. With this new layer selected, Command-click the type layer again and contract the selection by 3 pixles and fill it with white as you did to the Hightlight layer in Step 3. (Ever have deja vu?)

Again, as in Step 3 and 4, we are going to nudge the selection. This time nudge it down 1 pixel (view your document at 100% and hit the Down arrow once with a Selection tool active). Now delete the contents of the selection.

Set the Blending Mode for Edge Glow – Top to “Overlay” and that is it!

It’s interesting to note that if you select the text layer and apply almost any of Photoshop’s preset Styles, this technique still maintains its Aqua look. The Layer Style is only a small part of what makes it work.

aquafinal Adobe Photoshop Tip   The Ubiquitous Aqua Text Tutorial

Step 6: “Wait I thought I was finished”

The final step is to close the document without saving, trash that Layer Style you downloaded and never, ever use this tutorial. Go have a long shower and cleanse yourself of any grime of unoriginality that might have tempted you to actually use this effect for anything other than a joke. Shame on you! Shame!!!!

aquadontsave Adobe Photoshop Tip   The Ubiquitous Aqua Text Tutorial

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