palette

Adobe Photoshop Tip– Photoshop Facial

As a preface, let me say that the method I’m about to explain is not a behind the scenes look at how the fashion magazines help to promote an unattainable beauty standard. It may very well be one method they use, but I have no way to confirm this. The method is merely the one I’ve been using for the past few years and it works for me. It won’t make a 60 year old look like a teenager, but it will soften wrinkles, blemishes and unevenness in the skin in a somewhat natural way.

I’ve seen a few tutorials out there that tell you to duplicate your photo on a layer, blur the detail out of it and then mask that layer off almost entirely only painting in the areas where you want to get rid of wrinkles. Yes, this method works, but in my experience it looks unnatural. There is no texture to the skin where the effect has been applied. My method is similar to this but offers a bit more humanness to the blending.

You could also remove wrinkles and blemishes with the Heal tool and, if that works for you–awesome! But as impressed as I am with the Heal tool, sometimes it replaces wrinkles with what look like collagen injections that were administered by a cake decorator from Dairy Queen.

Now that I’ve insulted every other method, now it’s time to put my Wacom tablet where my mouth is. My method is quite similar to the blur method I described, but it adds back a level of detail that makes the softened areas look more believable in my opinion. Here’s how it works:

before Adobe Photoshop Tip   Photoshop Facial
We’re going to start with this image I bought off of iStockphoto.com. As you can see, even at this reduced size, the model in this shot has quite pronounced lines and wrinkles on his face. Now, what we’re going to do is not to attempt to turn back time 30 years or make him look like he’s fresh from a boy band–the man has lived his life, lets not have his photo protest that fact. We can, however, make him look like he’s lived a life less harsh on his skin. He’ll be the same age, he’ll just look like he drank a bit more water and possibly even used a night cream once in a while… okay, maybe that’s pushing it.

after Adobe Photoshop Tip   Photoshop Facial

Have a look for yourself:

He’s still the same age, he just looks like he doesn’t have as many miles on him.

Next, we’ll have a look at a close-up to show you the detail you can really see in the image shown here.

navigator Adobe Photoshop Tip   Photoshop Facial
beforeCU Adobe Photoshop Tip   Photoshop Facial
Here’s our starting point…

afterCU Adobe Photoshop Tip   Photoshop Facial

…and here’s the after.

He still has the wrinkles (and the bloodshot eyes…that will be another tutorial), they’re just not as pronounced–they’re softer. Also notice the subtle texture of the skin–it still looks like skin.

This is the kind of detail that you lose using the Clone tool or by simply blurring the area out.

Okay, enough of this: let’s get to the tellin’ how it’s done. It’s really easy.

Step 1: Median, not blur

Side note: If you are applying this technique to an image that is already made up of a series of layers, go Select>All (Command-A), Edit>Copy Merged (Shift-Command-C), Edit>Paste (Command-V) and then make sure the newly created layer is brought to the top layer position.

I duplicate my Background layer (see side note) and with this new layer selected in the Layer palette, I go Filter>Noise>Median… and adjust the slider until you no longer see the dark shadows of the wrinkles you are trying to soften. For the image I’m using, a setting of 15 did the trick.


Why Median? Why not Gaussian Blur? Have a look:

gausblur Adobe Photoshop Tip   Photoshop Facial

Gaussian Blur set at 15 pixels

median Adobe Photoshop Tip   Photoshop Facial

Median set at 15 pixels

Do you see how the Median filter took out the wrinkles without obliterating the “good” edge detail and how it left the contoured tones of the skin intact. To me, this just looks more natural. Also, when we add a layer mask and start adding this layer in with the Brush tool, we will be able to go in between the eyebrow and the eyelashes without picking up dark tones that would have spilled into that area if we had used the Gaussian Blur.


Step 2: High Pass

What is High Pass?
We played a bit with the High Pass filter way back in one of my first Photoshop tutorials here.

The filter hangs out in the “Other” category when it should almost be included with the Sharpening filters. If you were to take an image, duplicate its Background layer on a new layer, apply a High Pass of 1 on that layer and set the layer’s blending mode to “Overlay”, it would almost completely duplicate the effect of applying an Unsharp Mask of the same magnitude to that image.

The High Pass filter allows sharpening while allowing you to fully edit the “sharpening.” Imagine now: you can blend it, blur it, dodge it, burn it. Very cool.

This is where we add a bit of detail and texture back to the image.

Duplicate the Background layer again and bring the new dupe up to the top of the Layers palette and make sure it is selected there.

Now go Filter>Other>High Pass… and give it a low setting (I used 2). As you use this technique, experiment with different settings.

I then added a few percents worth of noise to my High Pass layer (Filter>Noise>Add Noise… set to 2% and Gaussian distribution … if you’re worried about color shifting, set it to “Monochromatic”)

Looks great, huh? No, I know, it looks like hell–but we’re not done.

Get your Layers palette out, hold down the Option key on your keyboard and click the line between the Median layer and the High Pass layer in the Layers palette This is what is called a Clipping Mask and, though you barely see anything change right now, it means that no part of the High Pass layer will show unless there is image showing from the Median layer below it. It means in this case, the effective Fill value of the High Pass layer just dipped down to match that of the Median layer.

Now change the Blending Mode of the High Pass layer to Overlay.

Now things should look… interesting.

Step 3: Painting out the wrinkles

Select the Median layer in the Layers palette and go Layer>Layer Mask>Hide All. Make sure that new layer mask is selected in the Layers palette; it should be after newly creating it.

Now is the time to tap the X key on your keyboard (to reset you foreground and background colors to white and black) and get out the Brush tool. You can now paint away all of the wrinkles in your image by applying the Brush tool to those areas of the new layer mask you created on the Median layer.

By making the Median layer a clipping mask of the High Pass layer you paint in (and out) both of them together.

Conclusion

That’s it–that’s the technique.

The values I’ve plugged into the filters in this example may be too strong or not strong enough for your images. The beauty of layer masks as opposed to applying filter or tools directly to the image is that you can use this pair of Median and High Pass layers to affect the wrinkles that they suit and then create others (stronger or weaker) to affect others.

Enjoy.

Adobe Photoshop Tip– Comic Art Effect (PC-Friendly Version)

Though MacMerc.com is, strictly speaking, a Mac site, this tutorial has been made “PC-friendly” for viewers of The Lab with Leo Laporte (my show notes are here). As I (Rick Yaeger) am, strictly speaking, a Mac guy, this PC-friendlifying of this tutorial may be a bit rough. I have done my best to catch all the Command-this’s and add (Ctrl-this on the PC) wherever I could, but a few might have fallen in the cracks.

If you’d like to partake of the original, PC-unfriendly version of this tutorial or any of the other Photoshop tutorials I have written, I welcome you to do so, but they will be PC-unfriendly and are likely to stay that way unless demonstrated on The Lab with Leo Laporte. If you would like to see any of these tutorials covered on the show, please contact The Lab and make your wishes known. I will be only too happy to comply if it means I get to be on TV. icon biggrin Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

Thanks and enjoy playing with the tutorial.

-Rick

LeoFrameFinal Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

Hey man, if somebody takes a picture of something and then you
get Photoshop to draw the same thing right on top of it, only going outside
the designated original art to make it looks somewhat comic book like, what
do call that? I call it my latest tutorial!

Use this baby to convert your digital pictures and scans into
comic book style illustrations. Nothing can take the place of talent …except
for maybe a relative who works high up in the business…but this tutorial will
get the idea across without requiring much artistic talent at all.


Disclaimers, conditions and preparations

Start with a good high resolution RGB image–at least a 5″ by 3″
image at 300ppi–that you’ve color corrected and sharpened. If the image is
bad, the result of this tutorial will also be bad–I can’t stress this enough.
I will give you some extra steps to fix a few quirks of the process as we go,
but having an image that crisp and vibrant in the first place will go a long
way to making this effect really pop.

I will be using three different images in my demonstration to illustrate various
challenges and subtleties of the effect. The first is a picture I took on my
trip to San Francisco at the Sharper Image. Behold!

mosstart Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

How can you go wrong making a comic book illustration from a picture of a comic
book hero? We’ll be tweaking how this tutorial effects this caped Kryptonian
in the Optional Stuff at the end of the tutorial.

The second is a shot that my buddy and steadfast Photoshop tutorial beta tester
“Digital” Bill Douthett took while he was on a trip to San
Francisco. Here you’ll see him with the sledgehammer wielding alpha geek Patrick
Norton on the set of the Screen Savers.

billandpatstart Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

This image is going to give me a bit of trouble because it seems to have been
taken on an unlit set, probably after the show was finished taping, which has
caused a bit of digital grain in places. Also, Bill (the dude on the left) is
pretty close to the camera flash and it’s giving him an odd pallor. These kinds
of things are very common in digital shots taken in uncontrolled environments.
But those shots are just the kind on which you might like to try this kind of
effect, so we’ll have to address those issues with extra steps in the Optional
Stuff section. No biggie.

The final image is also from the set of the Screen Savers and features not
only Patrick Norton (geez I hope Pat likes comic art…he’s in this tutorial
a lot), but Leo Laporte…the man who graciously provided this image and the
one at the top of this page (Thanks, Leo!).

tssstart Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

This image was more than likely shot by a professional photographer, with a
pretty fancy, if not schmancy, camera. The lighting and clarity is great. The
only thing that may challenge it as a comic book panel is that it is brimming
with rust, brown and beige–needs a bit more oomph to make it in the same universe
with the Man of Steel. This pic of Pat and Leo will be the main focus of this
tutorial.

I’ll be using Adobe Photoshop CS version 8 but I have also successfully tested
the steps involved and they work just dandy on Adobe Photoshop 7 and may even
work on lower versions and possibly Adobe Photoshop Elements.

So, if you’re ready, let’s get started…

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Extra Points:

If you’re feeling adventurous, you might want to alter the image before
proceeding with this tutorial. I’m thinking particularly of the Liquify
filter in the Filter menu. You could distort your picture into a caricature
and then use the comic book effect on it after.

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Step 1: The Displacement Map

Okay I’m going to start with the picture of Leo and Pat and I go Command-A
(Ctrl-A on a PC) to Select All and Command-C (Ctrl-C on a PC) to Copy and then Command-N (Ctrl-N on a PC) to start a new image
document the same size and resolution as the original. When you are confronted
by the New document dialog box, choose Lab for the Mode type.
Everything else should be set properly, so click OK.

This new document is going to be used later on in the tutorial, but I wanted
to get you to copy the image now before we apply a bunch of layers and filters
to it. With your new document started, hit Command-V (Ctrl-V on a PC) to paste and open the Channels
palette and click the channel marked “Lightness.”

Go to Image>Mode>Grayscale. Photoshop will ask if it is okay to flatten
the image–it is. Photoshop may even ask if it is okay to discard hidden layers–that’s
okay too. This will leave us with a pretty nice black and white rendition of
the original image.

Now when we eventually need to use this document we will be using it as what
is called a displacement map. We’re going to use the highlights and
shadows of the original image to distort something. It’s an effect that is usually
used on water droplet effects or when warping one image onto another. But I
think I’ve come up with a fairly unique application for the effect here. It
will look really cool, but you’ll have to wait. You will also have to save this
document as a Photoshop (.psd) file. Go Command-S (Ctrl-S on a PC) and save the document
somewhere where you’ll be able to find it later. Set the Format to “Photoshop”
and name the file “DispMap.psd”

Keep that file open but switch your attention (and Photoshop’s) to your original
image.

Step 2: Tone

Open up the Layers palette if it isn’t already and duplicate the Background
layer. Name this new layer “Tone”

We’re about to do some things that may make you wonder if I know what I’m doing.
Well, I wonder some times too. But trust me for now. Go to Filter>Artistic>Poster
Edges… and plug in a value of 0 for Edge Thickness, 0 for Edge Intensity and
1 for Posterization and click OK. Not bad.

Now go Filter>Artistic>Cutout… and set the Number of Levels to 4, the
Edge Simplicity to 3 and the Edge Fidelity to 2 and click OK. Scared now? Here’s
what mine looks like…

tsstone Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

Now go Filter>Blur>Smart Blur… and use a Radius setting of 6.0, a Threshold
of 80.0, set the Quality to High and the Mode to Normal and hit OK.

I know. It might not look promising, but it will improve. Actually, this layer
will set the tonal foundation for our color, but not the color itself. I could
have made tone and color on one layer, but I had inconsistent results and this
method provides greater control…which you’ll see later.


Step 3: Color

Duplicate the Background layer and drag it to the top of the layers currently
listed in the Layers palette. Name this new layer “Color” and set
its Blending Mode to “Color” Since this layer is only here to add
back the color of the original photo to the tonal map we created in Step 2,
we really don’t need any of the detail in the shot, just the color.

Go Filter>Noise>Dust & Scratches and set the Radius to 10 pixels
and the Threshold to 0 levels.

This has brought back the natural color of the image back into our effect…which
would be fine…if we were going for a “natural” look. But we’re not.
The kind of comics this effect has been created to emulate are those from the
first early years when the colors were almost entirely homogenous and extremely
vibrant.

Go Image>Adjustments>Hue/Saturation and leave the Hue at 0 but bump the
Saturation up to 80 and the Lightness to 50.

tsscolor Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

That’s as far as we can go with color until we get some ink to define these
characters.

Step 4: Ink 1

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Anisotropic
Anisotrope An”i*so*trope`, Anisotropic An`i*so*trop”ic,
a. [Gr. ? unequal + ? a turning, ? to turn.] (Physics) Not isotropic;
having different properties in different directions; thus, crystals of
the isometric system are optically isotropic, but all other crystals are
anisotropic.

Source: Webster’s Revised Unabridged Dictionary, © 1996, 1998 MICRA,
Inc.

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Duplicate the Background layer once more and drag it to the top of all the
layers currently listed in the Layers palette. Name this layer “Ink 1″
and set its Blending Mode to “Multiply” This layer’s sole purpose
is to keep the shadows black. That’s it.

Go Image>Adjustments>Threshold… and give it a setting of 25 and click
OK.

Now if you take a look at the edges of black areas this effect produces, you’ll
notice that they’re very rough and pixelated and look nothing like the ink strokes
in a comic book. The ink in the old comics was laid down with a brush or a pen
and gave a very smooth look. We’re going to try to achieve a bit of that now…

Go Filter>Stylize>Diffuse and click the radio button beside the word
Anisotropic before clicking OK.


Step 5: Ink 2

Guess what? You’re going to duplicate the Background layer again and
drag it to the top of all the layers currently listed in the Layers palette
again. This time, name this layer “Ink 2″ and set its Blending
Mode to “Multiply” This layer will draw the detail back in our image.

It is very important that you reset your Foreground and Background colors to
default before proceeding, so hit the D key before it’s too late!!

Go Filter>Sketch>Photocopy…and use these settings: Detail of 12 and
Darkness of 15 and then click OK.

Now, that has probably added a bit too much detail and schmutz to the image,
so we’ll tone it down in some places and strengthen the good details in the
process.

Go Image>Adjustments>Threshold… give it 100 and click OK.

We’re going to run the Anisotropic Diffuse here too… go Filter>Stylize>Diffuse
and select Anisotropic before clicking OK.

tssink2 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

Not bad, but the thing I really like about comic book art is those brush strokes
in the shadows. You know what I mean? They’re almost like a woodcut effect and
they add shadow while also defining the curvature and shape of the object they
shade. There is no way to faithfully duplicate what only God-given talent and
years of practice can produce, but I’ll do my best…


Step 6: Ink 3

I bet you think we’re going to duplicate the Background layer again, huh? Nope.

Make a new layer at the top of the layers list and name it “Ink 3″.

Go Edit>Fill… set the Contents to Use: 50% Gray and the Blending to Mode:
Normal, Opacity: 100% and leave Preserve Transparency unchecked. Click OK.

Go Filter>Sketch>Halftone Pattern… and set the Size to 2, the Contrast
to 25 and the Pattern Type to Line. Click OK.

Now is when we get to use that displacement map we built in Step 1. Go Filter>Distort>Displace…
and set both the Horizontal and Vertical Scales to 25, the Displacement Map
setting really doesn’t matter since we’re using a map that is custom fit, but
set the Undefined Areas setting to “Wrap Around” just in case. Click
OK and Photoshop will ask you to show it the file you want to use as the displacement
map. Point it to the one we created earlier and click Open.

What you see might might disturb you, but have courage–it will all work out.

Go Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur… and set the Radius to 2 pixels and click
OK.

Go Image>Adjustments>Threshold… and set it to 120 and click OK.

Now go Filter>Stylize>Diffuse and select Anisotropic before clicking
OK.

Set the Blending Mode of the Ink 3 layer to Multiply …hmmm…looks weird
huh?

Hopefully, you have followed this tutorial straight through and you still have
the Background image in your clipboard from when we copied it in Step 1…we’ll
soon find out.

Hit the Q key to enter Quick Mask Mode and hit Command-V (Ctrl-V on a PC) to paste whatever
you might have in your clipboard there…it should be the image we started with
only in red or whatever color you have Quick Mask set to display…if not or
if you’re not sure, open the DispMap.psd file we created, hit Command-A (Ctrl-A ona PC) to select
all and Command-C (Ctrl-C on a PC) to copy and then come back to Quick Mask mode in your comic
book image and hit Command-V (Ctrl-V on a PC) to paste. With me still?

Still in Quick Mask Mode, go Filter>Blur>Smart Blur… use a Radius of
6.0, a Threshold of 80.0 in High Quality, Normal Mode. Click OK.

Hit the Q key again the exit Quick Mask Mode and return to Standard Mode (aka
Marching Ants Mode). You should see selections around the lighter parts of your
image.

Go Layer>Add Layer Mask>Hide Selection. This will have lightened or obliterated
the horizontal lines from the highlights of your image, but it will still leave
it looking like everyone and everything is made of wood with very deep grain
showing.

The layer mask you just added to the Ink 3 layer should automatically be selected,
but if it isn’t, select it now. Go Image>Adjust> Threshold… now, here
I’m going to ask you to make a judgment call… start with a value of 200 in
the Threshold dialog and adjust it to your own liking. I found 200 to be fine
for the picture of Superman and the one of Bill and Pat, but this image with
Pat and Leo needed to be set at 225. So I’ll leave it up to you. When you’re
happy with it, click OK.

tssink3 Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

See how the displacement map warped the horizontal lines so that they show
the contours of the wrinkles in Leo’s shirt. Niiiice.

If you’re happy with the way your image turned out, that’s awesome. You need
go no further. But for steps on plugging in your own color, adjusting the tone,
whitening the whites (notice Pat’s teeth?) and adding that cool dot pattern
effect that comics have, continue on to…the Optional Stuff…


the Optional Stuff:

Color:

Remember that shot of Digital Bill and Pat? I went through all the steps of
the tutorial with that shot and came up with this:

billandpatgreen Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

I guess it’s not horrible, but the guys are looking a bit green. Superman was
never green…Batman wasn’t green…and the Hulk was…was…a really bad movie.
Anyway, I digress. We’re going to fix the color problem by creating a new layer
above the Color layer named “Painted Color” with its Blending Mode
set to “Color”.

I opened up my Swatches palette with the default colors loaded, selected a
suitable skin tone color and began to paint over their faces with the Brush
tool. I didn’t have to be too careful: I can paint over the black areas without
hurting anything and if I did paint somewhere I shouldn’t, I can just erase
it. See?

billandpatgoodskin Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

Hmm…but Bill could use a whitening treatment on his teeth…


Whites:

One weak spot of this tutorial is that it kills the whites of people’s eyes
and teeth and, in comics, everybody has gleaming white teeth. We can fix this
rather simply. Make a new layer just above the Tone layer and name it “Whites”
and leave the Blending Mode as Normal.

Grab the Brush tool and make white your foreground color and go in and paint
in white where you want white. If you make a mistake, use the Eraser tool to
fix it.

billandpatniceteeth Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

Now those are a couple of Pepsodent smiles! But I don’t like their tone…


Tone:

Often the original image is a bit dark and that darkness just gets worse and
worse as you develop the Tone layer for this effect. It’s easy enough to fix.
Select the Tone layer in the Layers palette and go Image>Adjustments>Levels.
You’ll see a nasty looking bar chart (a histogram if you like) with a black
pointer under it on the left, a white pointer under it on the right and a gray
one in the middle. Grab the gray one and drag it to the left to lighten the
Tone layer or drag it to the right to darken it. I lighten the Tone layer of
this image and got this result:

billandpatgoodtone Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

I think all these images need a bit of a dot screen effect to really sell it
as a real old school comic book…this sounds like a job for …Superman!!!


Dot Screen:

I really don’t like applying filters to an image unless I leave myself a way
out. Using layers is the best way I know to do this. So to add the dot screen
effect to finalize this image of Superman…

supermanbefore Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

…we’re going to create a new layer below the Ink 1 layer and name it “Dot
Screen”

Go Edit>Fill… set the Contents to Use: 50% Gray and the Blending to Mode:
Normal, Opacity: 100% and leave Preserve Transparency unchecked. Click OK.

Then go Filter>Pixelate>Color Halftone… use all of the default settings
except change the Max Radius to 4 pixels and click OK.

Now set the Blending Mode of the Dot Screen layer to “Overlay”

supermanafter Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

COOL!!

Now I leave you with the finished versions of the other two images:

billandpatfinal Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

tssfinal Adobe Photoshop Tip   Comic Art Effect (PC Friendly Version)

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Dialog Balloons and Lettering

I think this tutorial has gone on long enough, but if you’re interested
in continuing your education, check out Blambot
and Balloon Tales
for some great fonts and tutorials on lettering. And if you’re interested
in really doing some comic artwork, pay the community at Comic
Colors
a visit.

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Turn 2-D images into 3-D masterpieces!!

(from Episode #76 of The Lab with Leo Laporte)

Have you ever seen one of those movies or a still image that appeared to be in 3-D when you wore special red and blue glasses? It’s easier than you think to make one of those images. In fact, I’ll show you 2 methods to achieve this effect. The first one requires you to take two pictures of a stationary subject and merge them in Photoshop. The other will take an existing photo and convert it to 3-D.

First, I should explain how 3-D images work. We view the world in 3 dimensions because our two eyes see things slightly differently and our brain interprets the two pictures our eyes see as being 3 dimensional. We unconsciously calculate depth, width and height based on the similarities and the differences between those two pictures. It just happens. We don’t even realize we do it.

These artificial 3-D images we’ll be creating, called anaglyphs, simulate in a 2-D image the 2 pictures our eyes see when we look at actual 3-D objects. The red and blue lenses of the 3-D classes block out certain information in the 2-D image allowing the blue lens only see the red channel of the image and the red lens to only see the blue and green channels. This allows a single 2-D image to hold the 2 slightly different images our eyes need to see in order to perceive 3-D information.

Here are a few methods you can can use to make one of these images:

The 2 picture/1 camera method (this method works on stationary objects)

With a digital camera affixed to a sturdy tripod, take a picture of the stationary subject. Carefully move the camera and tripod 2.5 and 3 inches to the right and take another picture.

What you have effectively done is taken a left eye image and a right eye image.
lefteye 20070919 184629 Turn 2 D images into 3 D masterpieces!!
righteye 20070919 184732 Turn 2 D images into 3 D masterpieces!!
Open both images in Photoshop. Using your first image (your “left eye” image) open the Channels palette and click the Red channel (Ctrl-1 on PC or Command-1 on Mac). Select all (Ctrl-A on PC or Command-A on Mac) and copy (Ctrl-C on PC or Command-C on Mac).

Now go to the second image (your “right eye” image) and click the Red channel (Ctrl-1 on PC or Command-1 on Mac) in the Channels palette. Paste the Red channel from the “left eye” image in Red channel of the “right eye” image (Ctrl-V on PC or Command-V on Mac).

Click the RGB composite channel in the Channels palette (Ctrl-~ on PC or Command-~ on Mac) and put on your 3-D glasses (make sure the left lens is red and the right lens is blue).
3dimage 20070919 184851 Turn 2 D images into 3 D masterpieces!!


The 2-D to 3-D conversion method

The problem with the 2 picture/1 camera method is that you can’t capture action. No pictures of your dog jumping to catch a frisbee. No 3-D pictures from the airshow. None of that.

The 2-D to 3-D conversion method allows you to alter an existing 2-D image and make it 3-D.

I’m going to start with this image of Dr. Tiki and Leo on the set of The Lab…
drtiki 20070919 185021 Turn 2 D images into 3 D masterpieces!!
What you need to do is select the frontmost item in the photo and save the selection as a channel. Then select the next most foreword item and save that as a channel and so on and so on until you reach the background. How detailed you want to be is up to you. I have selected Dr. Tiki’s face, then his body, then Leo’s arms and camera, then Leo, then the column behind Leo and then I left everything else as the background. Here’s what my Channels palette looks like:

channels 20070919 185209 Turn 2 D images into 3 D masterpieces!!
Now, create yet another new empty channel and fill it with white. In your Swatches palette, select 20% Gray, load the back-most item in the Channels palette as a selection (in my case, “Alpha 5″ in the screenshot above) and then fill the selection with 20% Gray in the new channel. Continue to select progressively darker shades of gray and use the color to fill the selections of each increasingly more foreground channel in our new channel. So, for my image, I’ll make a selection of Alpha 4 and fill with 40% Gray, then make a selection of Alpha 3 and fill that with 60% Gray, then Alpha 2 with 80% Gray and Alpha 1 with Black. Plan out your selections and grays so that you can make a smooth progression from the background in White to the foreground in Black. Here’s what my channel looks like:
dispmap1 20070919 185255 Turn 2 D images into 3 D masterpieces!!
I know it looks scary–bear with me.

Go Filter>Blur>Gaussian Blur… and use a setting of 10. Click OK. This with blend the levels a bit. Now we need to expand the coverage of the different levels of depth a bit. To do this we will use a Filter called Minimum which shrinks the coverage of the lighter areas of the affected image.

Go Filter>Other>Minimum… and plug in a value of 10. Click OK.
dispmap2 20070919 185343 Turn 2 D images into 3 D masterpieces!!
Select All (Ctrl-A on PC or Command-A on Mac) and Copy (Ctrl-C on PC or Command-C on Mac). Create a new Photoshop document and Photoshop will automatically plug in the height and width of the image held in the clipboard’s memory, so you need only click OK.

Paste the funky channel in the new document (Ctrl-V on PC or Command-V on Mac) and save this new document as a Photoshop (.psd) file and save it somewhere where you will easily find it again. Close this new file and direct your attention back to the main document.

Click the Red channel in the Channels palette (Ctrl-1 on PC or Command-1 on Mac) and activate the “eye” icon next to the RGB composite channel in the channels palette (just activate the “eye” don’t select the RGB composite channel itself). It should look like this:
redchannel 20070919 185439 Turn 2 D images into 3 D masterpieces!!

You should see the full color image in the document window but what you’re about to do will only affect the Red channel.

Go Filter>Distort>Displace… and enter 20 in the Horizontal Scale field and 0 in the Vertical Scale field and click OK.
displace 20070919 185542 Turn 2 D images into 3 D masterpieces!!
And that’s it! It’s in THREEEEEEEEEEEEE-DEEEEEEEEEE!!!
3Dtiki 20070919 185617 Turn 2 D images into 3 D masterpieces!!

Still need more 3-D stimulation?

Check these anaglyphs on Flickr.

Do you just need to buy some 3-D glasses? I bought mine here.